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Installing toekick and crown molding on the cabinets. And adding some open shelving. Your custom wood range hood turned out beautifully.

Thanks so much for sharing your insights. Hi Krista! We are getting the same hood insert Broan PM! I have a couple of questions for you before we make the big leap and follow your excellent tutorial!

Also, did you wire or plug yours in? On Build. We have an outlet on the wall right where it will live already. I doubt it would be an issue either way, just want to know if we need to call up an electrician to wire it or if we are fine as-is!

Thank you for an excellent tutorial! I love how yours turned out! Hi Jess, we are about to renovate the kitchen at our new house and I think we will build this again!

And we either hard-wired it right behind the unit, or we maybe had a plug installed there to wire it to. Hi Ann, Just search kitchen on my blog in the search bar on the homepage and you will see tons of examples of the completed hood fan.

But thanks for the reminder — I need to add some completed pictures to this post! Here is the post I wrote about adding the corbels:. Wow, this is an impressive tutorial.

It never crossed my mind to create a range hood using wood but it turned out great! Looking forward to seeing your projects!

These instructions will be a helpful tutorial as I attempt to tackle the same. Although I only have 30 inches between my cabinets so will need to adjust measurements.

Love the project, we are getting ready to do the very same thing. The one thing that I am concerned about however is moisture under the hood.

Have you had any issues with moisture or cleaning the wood surface under the hood surrounding the hood insert? Hello Damaris! Yes, we did talk about that, but MDF is not a structurally sound as plywood and is more subject to moisture issues by the steam etc.

Thanks for your visit and good luck with your project! Looks great. If you did it again, would you have insulated inside the enclosure for noise proofing?

Or is the vent quiet enough as is? Hope that helps:. Kudos to you guys for DIYing a range hood. Lay your yard of fabric out on a large space.

A living room floor works great. Measure a 30" x 15" rectangle in one corner of the fabric. Mark this rectangle with your chalk and cut it out.

This will be the hood of the cape. If you want an extra-droopy hood and larger cape, measure the hood as 35" x 20" instead. Next, measure the length of the cape.

Use your measuring tape to measure from your shoulder to your calf, or wherever you want your cape to end. An easier way to measure your cape length is to lay down on the fabric.

Lay with the top edge of the fabric at your shoulders. Sit up without moving your legs. Mark with chalk at your leg where you want the cape to fall.

Make another mark a few inches lower. This is where you will cut. Use your measuring tape to mark this line across the fabric.

Cut across. You can hem all around the edges of your cape if you are going for a refined look. For a rougher look, leave the edges raw.

Over time, the edges will unravel. Alternately, you can blanket stitch to add a decorative look to the edges. Cut out your hood and cape pieces.

Save the scrap fabric to make the cape ties. If you plan to wear the cloak outdoors, then make sure the fabric you choose will hold up against the elements, such as a waterproof nylon or vinyl fabric.

Make sure that the fabric you choose moves easily. Hold a piece in your hand and try to wave it around. Use a smooth fabric for the inside of the cloak.

Good choices for the inside of a cloak are satin and silk, but you can use any smooth fabric you like. A smooth fabric will make it easier to get the cloak on and off over your clothes.

However, if you do not care about making the inside of your cloak smooth, then you can use any type of fabric you want.

To save money, you can use cotton or broadcloth for the interior. Choose matching or contrasting colors for your cloak. The exterior fabric of the cloak will always be visible, but the interior will only be visible when you flourish the cloak, open it up, or take it off.

Still, having a little pop of color on the inside of the cloak is a nice touch, or you can go with an interior fabric that will match the exterior for a more subtle look.

For example, go with a black fabric for the exterior, and a black fabric on the interior for something subtle.

Or, use black fabric for the outside of the cloak, and red, green, purple, or some other color for the interior for a pop of color. Pick out a clasp or other closure piece for the front clasp.

Most cloaks are secured at the neck with just 1 hook clasp or some other type of closure piece. The pattern you use should specify what type of closure piece you will need to secure the cloak.

Check to be sure, and then select a clasp in a design and color that you like. For example, you could use a gold hook for a black cloak with green lining.

Or, you could use a purple clasp for a cloak made with teal fabric. Part 2 of Cut out all of the paper pattern pieces.

Cut along the lines for the size cloak you want to make. If you are using a 1-size-fits-all pattern, then there will only be 1 set of lines to cut along.

However, some patterns may include different length options, so make sure that you follow the instructions for the length you want.

Lay out your fabric as instructed by the pattern. Usually, you will be instructed to fold the fabric in half so that you can cut 2 pattern pieces out at once, or so you can cut out 1 larger piece along the fold.

Make sure that the fabric is flat with no bumps in it. Pin the paper pattern pieces onto the fabric.

Some pieces can go anywhere on the fabric, while others will need to go along the fold. This will be indicated on the paper pattern pieces with arrows and text.

Regular pins may damage the fabric. Cut the fabric around the edges of the paper pattern pieces. Use a sharp pair of scissors to cut the fabric along the edges of the pattern pieces.

Follow the edges of the pattern pieces closely to ensure that you get the proper shape and size. Try to avoid making any jagged cuts in the fabric as well.

These are important for lining up your fabric pieces to sew them together. Part 3 of Pin together matching fabric pieces as instructed by your pattern.

You will need to pin together the edges of the interior and exterior cloak pieces so that the right sides print or outer sides of the fabric are facing each other.

Line up any notches that you cut in the fabric and make sure that the edges of the pieces are even all the way around. Make sure that the right sides of the fabric pieces are facing each other when you pin them.

This is so the seams will be hidden inside of the cloak. The hood pieces will likely have a few notches in them, so make sure to line these up carefully.

Sew together individual pieces of the cloak exterior and lining. Since a cloak is such a large garment, you may have to sew a few smaller pieces together, and you will also have to sew together 4 or more pieces to create the hood.

Make sure to line up any notches and sew the hood parts together exactly as your pattern instructs you to. For example, you will sew 2 hood lining pieces together with the edges aligned and the right sides facing each other.

Then, repeat this for the exterior fabric, and then sew together the edges of the exterior and lining hood pieces.

Sew a straight stitch 0. This will be the seam allowance for your cloak and it will make the seam more secure.

The opening will allow you to invert the cloak so that the seams will be hidden. Do not sew over them or you may damage your sewing machine. Invert the fabric and sew over the open area to close it.

After you have finished sewing the cloak lining and exterior fabric together, pull the fabric through the opening to invert it.

The right sides of the lining and exterior should now be visible. Press your fingers into the corners of the cloak to ensure that the edges of the cloak are well defined.

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If you are using a sewing machine, set it for the longest stitch available. Leave plenty of loose thread on the edge. After you have threaded the edge of the cape, hold the extra thread with one hand and use the other to scrunch the fabric down along the thread.

Continue to evenly gather the fabric along the thread until the edge of the cape is the same length as the hood. Next, we will sew the hood to the cape.

Lay the hood on the gathered end of the cape. The hood should be upside-down so that the hemmed edges are on top.

The cape should be right-side up. Sew the cape to the hood. Fold the hood as shown in the photo, touching the top two corners together.

Make sure you are touching together the right sides of the fabric so the hood is inside-out. Straight stitch along the new fold you just made.

Now your cape is assembled and you just need to make the ties for the neck. Cut two rectangles from the spare fabric, 10" x 3".

Fold the two long edges of the rectangles to the center. Now fold the rectangles in half. Straight stitch along the open edge of the rectangle.

Next, you will finish up by stitching the ties to the cape. Stitch one end of a tie to the inside edge of the cape. Repeat with the other side.

Try on your finished cape and tie it around your neck. Some extra tips:. What You'll Need. Measure Hood Piece. Measure the Cape Length. Hem the Hood.

Continue to 5 of 8 below. Baste and Gather the Cape. Sew Hood to Cape. Make Ties. Stitch Ties to the Cape and Finish. Read More. The Spruce Crafts uses cookies to provide you with a great user experience.

We used them for structure and support — the back ones were used to hang the finished frame on the wall.

The front ones were used to attach the MDF facing piece to once the frame was attached to the wall and the hood fan was installed.

Then we slid the base piece into the routered out section, marked the line for the base piece along the exterior of the side using a straight edge and a pencil, and nailed into the base piece through the side of the side piece along the marked line….

Once the base piece was glued and nailed to both side pieces, it was time to attach the 4 frame pieces to the front and back. We used wood glue and then nails to attach them….

We used a large clamp to hold it in place while we glued and nailed… making sure to keep things flush before nailing it all together. Now is time to hang this baby… We predrilled holes through the back of the frame pieces where we planned to attach it to the wall using very long wood screws … We held it up on the wall.

I helped hold it as well, but snapped a quick picture first… We made sure it was straight and level… And screwed it into the studs using through the holes that we had predrilled in the back frame pieces….

Then we framed it out with some corner moldings…. And then some moldings across the front…. We just need paint! We also plan to add some more moulding along the sides after the tiling has been completed up to the sides of the fan as well as add some beautiful corbels underneath it.

Here is how the Broan insert looks from underneath we will be painting the plywood that buts up to it as well … And it even has some great little lights!

Next up: tile. Painting the window trim. Installing the light fixtures. Paneling the ceiling I still have my fingers crossed on that one.

Planking the peninsula. Installing toekick and crown molding on the cabinets. And adding some open shelving. Your custom wood range hood turned out beautifully.

Thanks so much for sharing your insights. Hi Krista! We are getting the same hood insert Broan PM!

I have a couple of questions for you before we make the big leap and follow your excellent tutorial! Also, did you wire or plug yours in?

On Build. We have an outlet on the wall right where it will live already. I doubt it would be an issue either way, just want to know if we need to call up an electrician to wire it or if we are fine as-is!

Thank you for an excellent tutorial! I love how yours turned out! Hi Jess, we are about to renovate the kitchen at our new house and I think we will build this again!

And we either hard-wired it right behind the unit, or we maybe had a plug installed there to wire it to. Hi Ann, Just search kitchen on my blog in the search bar on the homepage and you will see tons of examples of the completed hood fan.

But thanks for the reminder — I need to add some completed pictures to this post! Here is the post I wrote about adding the corbels:. Wow, this is an impressive tutorial.

It never crossed my mind to create a range hood using wood but it turned out great! Looking forward to seeing your projects! These instructions will be a helpful tutorial as I attempt to tackle the same.

Although I only have 30 inches between my cabinets so will need to adjust measurements. Love the project, we are getting ready to do the very same thing.

The one thing that I am concerned about however is moisture under the hood. Have you had any issues with moisture or cleaning the wood surface under the hood surrounding the hood insert?

Hello Damaris! Yes, we did talk about that, but MDF is not a structurally sound as plywood and is more subject to moisture issues by the steam etc. Thanks for your visit and good luck with your project!

Looks great. If you did it again, would you have insulated inside the enclosure for noise proofing? Or is the vent quiet enough as is? Hope that helps:.

Kudos to you guys for DIYing a range hood.

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